Right to left – Fendi, Prada, Dior, Blue Marble, Louis Vuitton
There certainly wasn’t a lack of colour on the runway this season. With the vaccine bringing us hope of ‘normality’ before the fall comes back around, Silvia Fendi has ensured we’ll be leaving the house in technicolour. Fendi’s AW21/22 show featured an array of padded jackets in neon hues, which kick-started the statement outerwear trend for the upcoming season. Raf Simons’ debut Prada menswear collection did not disappoint. He managed to imprint his renowned androgynous style whilst keeping the collection unmistakably Prada. We loved the 90s oversized bombers, especially those in standout shades of pink and purple. Kim Jones, whilst balancing his new role at Fendi, ensured Dior stayed on top of their menswear game. Their addition to the trend was a short orange jacket which featured an embellished trim and pocket pin accessories. At Paris Fashion Week, Blue Marble’s collection featured a shearling jacket in a psychedelic reflective coating, earning its position as a statement outerwear piece. Virgil Abloh’s puffer jacket for Louis Vuitton took the trend to the extreme, featuring famous European architecture – a nod to adventures we hope to be able to embark on again in the near future.
Right to left – Prada, Louis Vuitton, Hermes, Solid Hommes, Ermenegildo Zenga
Knitwear is a staple on every AW runway for both men’s and women’s collections. Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons took the trend to the extreme with multiple head to toe knitted outfits, featuring knitted long john’s, cardigans and jumpers. Our favourite knitwear look from the show was a layered look with an oversized yellow V-neck jumper. Louis Vuitton’s offering to the trend came from the chunkiest green cable knit paired with oversized straight cut jeans. Hermes’ men’s show at Paris Fashion Week consisted of premium essentials. The outfits were an elegant take on casual wear. Their zip-neck cable knit sweater the perfect cosy knit for next fall. Solid Hommes’ Aw21/22 collection was appropriately named ‘New Olds’. An oversized knitted vest, layered with matching knitwear and tailored trousers all in the same pale blue hue – the perfect combination of old and new. Ermenegildo Zenga took a deconstructed approach to its AW21/22 collection, their chunky knit in beige and brown shades made it perfect to blend in with the upcoming autumn colours.
Dress Like a Man
Right to left – Burberry, Wales Bonner, Louis Vuitton, JW Anderson, Loewe
Year after year the role of gender in fashion is re-evaluated and this year we saw designers take androgyny to the max. A plethora of designers included skirts in their menswear collections and we love it. Burberry brought us the trend in their iconic nova check print paired with a matching utility jacket for an athleisure take on the trend. Wales Bonner took the trend further into the streetwear market by adding a knitted skirt to her tracksuit collaboration with Adidas. Virgil Abloh for Louis Vuitton headed in a more formal western direction (that’s now a thing) with an asymmetric checked skirt and shirt, layered with a matching blazer, cowboy boots and cowboy hat. JW Anderson kept things minimal and synonymously British merging traditionally feminine design trends such as the cosy knitted dress with baggy and styling that ensured a masculine finish. Loewe’s FW21/22 collection felt very laid back and hippy. Loosely fitted pants worn with a soft knit of pink and mustard tones broke the rule book to represent today’s modern man.
Right to left – Vetements, Louis Vuitton, Loewe
Many designers pushed boundaries with their collections this year. Vetements are traditionally risqué with their designs and their AW21/22 collection proved no different with their grungy leather mac covered in straps and belts. Virgil Abloh previously featured harnesses on the runway for men and this year we saw a padded version of his harness paired with a matching suit. Loewe took us back to a punk era, their leather trousers featured lace-up and buckle features, that fitted in with the grunge aesthetic of their whole collection.
Right to left – Louis Vuitton, Louis Vuitton and Loewe
It’s been nearly a year since our ability to travel has been limited due to the pandemic and our desires to get out and see the world have been widely reflected on the runways. Louis Vuitton’s whole show was dedicated to the theme of travel, their tailored long coat featured airplane button broaches, hopefully by autumn our dreams of international travel become reality. The trend was taken to the extreme with their luggage, especially with the airplane shaped bag in the classic monogram print. Despite the questionable practicality of the item, the piece definitely has the potential to become the ‘it’ bag of 2020. Modelled by Spanish actor, Omar Ayuso, Loewe brought us a euro hiker inspired look. Clad with excess luggage and accessories the look is perfect for a mountain getaway. Whist encompassing elements of our previously mentioned ‘Dress Like a Man’ trend, Thom Browne stuck to his renowned colour palette for this look.The added accessories fit the ‘Tourist’ trend perfectly, we especially love the dachshund inspired bag. The Italian fashion house Etro kept things casual for much of their men’s FW21/22 runway show, the playful blue and orange colour combinations on this look, paired with a rucksack featuring their famous paisley print make this whole look perfect for a European city break.
(Images Courtesy of Vogue, HypeBeast and WWD)
By Evan Burrowes.